Jacques Pepin is one of the chefs that definitely piqued my interest in cooking. I watched Jacques and Julia’s cooking show before I even knew that they were the founding chefs of cooking in America. Julia would state how she wanted to do a recipe, and then Jacque would disagree and explain the truly classical way to doing that recipe. Then Julia would respond with a “yes, but we’re doing a show for home cooks.” Then Jacque would acquiesce, and a brilliant, inspiring meal would come together in the remaining 20 minutes of the show. There were times that I would be so inspired to cook an item, and I would rush to the kitchen hoping to find a whole salmon and roll of parchment to try make Salmon en Papillote or ground lamb to make sausage. Alas, my parents’ refrigerator wasn’t stocked the way a French chef might stock her refrigerator. Nonetheless, the desire to cook those items stayed with me, and the passion is the chief reason that I enrolled in culinary classes.
Jacques Pepin was born in Bourg-en-Bresse, a small town outside of Lyon, France, and he grew up working in his parents’ restaurant, Le Pelican. Lyon is at the heart of the Burgundy region, and is famous for sausages, frog legs, and fish quenelles. Fish quenelles are composed of puffed up egg and chopped fish, according to Herve This. According to the Guardian, Lyon is the food capital of the world, because “of what’s not in Lyon but nearby. The food makers, like Regis Marcon and his son, or Alain Chapel, 15 miles east,…or Le Pyramide 15 miles south… and because of what is grown in the dirt itself… Beaujolais. Macon, where the white grapes start.” The proximity to the wealth of some of the most notable restaurants and food growers in the world would definitely have a profound effect on a young, food-loving boy. What Jacques reminisced about were the markets. “What I see and remember more than anything else were markets. The Marche St. Antoine, along the Saone in Lyon, or the market in Antibes…I realize my travels are always associated with local roducts and restaurants.” As far back as he can remember, he remembers the food and family in the kitchen. “I have been defined by food all my life.”
During the World War, Jacques was sent by his parents to live on a farm where he ate farm-fresh produce and drank milk fresh from the cows. During an NPR interview, he said that milk “is probably one of my first memories of food.” Because France was torn by war, Jacque’s mother worked hard to create nutritious meals with practically nothing. Because his father was away in the French Resistance, Jacques’ mother would scavenge supplies from farms up to 50 miles away. Her resourcefulness was something that many French homes were forced to do during the war, and the determination to survive and succeed influenced Jacques’ career development. He also learned to save everything, and even today apple peelings are saved for drying.
At thirteen, he dropped out of school to cook full time by working in some of the most famous kitchens in Paris. He trained under Chef Lucien Diat at the Plaza Athenee, at Maxim’s, at Fouquets, and eventually worked as a private chef for the secretary of the treasury. The early years were challenging; food was still being rationed in post-war France. He told the NPR interviewer that he loved the structure and repetition of apprenticeship, a training route for chefs that existed long before culinary arts programs. Including the private chef position for the secretary of the treasury, who was eventually elected as a Prime Minister, he cooked for three heads of state in France, including Charles de Gaulle.
He moved to the US in the 1960s, worked at Le Pavillon, and was offered the opportunity to cook for President John F. Kennedy. He didn’t; instead he became the director of Research and Development for the Howard Johnson hotel chain, and he worked in R&D for 10 years. While at LE Pavillon in New York, Jacques developed friendships with titans of food, including food critic Craig Claiborne, James Beard, and Helen McCully. He credits McCully as being a mentor and “surrogate mother” for him. Apparently, working at the greatest French restaurant in America had its benefits.
Also in the 1960s, at McCully’s suggestion, Jacques reviewed a new cookbook written by an American woman and two friends that sought to encapsulate most of the cooking techniques and knowledge of French cooking and give it to the housewives and home cooks of America. This, as history shows, was the start of a very long and dear friendship. As Julia gained fame as a television cook, Jacques was close behind. They taught together at the famous Boston University Food Studies program. They also collaborated on the television program Julia and Jacque Cooking at Home. This program earned a Daytime Emmy in 2001. Jacques is now 75 years old, and he is still cooking on PBS. Now he has a show called Fast Food My Way.
He has published 26 cookbooks and hosted twelve public television shows, including Essential Pepin, in 2011. Two of his earlier books include La Technique and La Methods are even used as culinary text books. Jacques also wrote for Food & Wine and continues to attend the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, Co. In addition to his cooking shows and books, he also helped to cofound and remains the Dean of Special Programs at the French Culinary Institute in New York City. From that school, famous chefs including Bobby Flay can claim to have learned from some of the best chefs.
Jacques Pepin may portray a cozy chef for home cooks, but he is still the chef of the heads of state and a professional. New York Times writer Sarah Rosenberg found that the chef is still particular about techniques and methods. When he entered into the culinary field, chef work wasn’t the glamorous, television-quality career that it is portrayed as now. He observes that the modern chef hopefuls completely different than his peers – he said that one of the two students has dreams of writing a book or being on television. Culinary schools certainly shorten the time that an apprentice cook spends learning his craft, but Jacques fears that they rush through the basics and try move to fancy, creative cookery before they’re ready. He says that it comes back to repeating those skills until the skill becomes part of your body and your instinct. Still, culinary schools are packed with young (and not so young) hopefuls at making a go in the culinary world.
“Any mother would have wanted their child to marry a doctor, a lawyer…not a cook,” he is quoted for telling Rosenberg. The food industry in general has changed, from the supermarkets to the farmers markets, and it is related to how consumers have become more educated and more worldly about their food. With the advent of pop food culture, Jacques is generally optimistic, but he definitely turns the view back to technique first.
“All the great chefs I know – they are technicians first,” he told New York Times writer Jeff Gordinier. Some of these great chefs actually studied under Jacques, like Tom Colicchio from Craft who used La Technique to learn some of the methods of the trade. The first and most important lesson for being a good cook: have a sharp knife. The rest of the techniques follow when you have the right tools.
Jacques’ influence on French cuisine is most obvious in the American experience of French cuisine as defined by Julia Child and Jacques Pepin. From techniques he learned in war-torn France as a child to being a famous chef at a French restaurant in New York City to being a celebrity of his own right, Jacques seeks to interpret technique for home cooks and hopes to instill tried and true methods into young chefs. As with the modern application of classical technique in popular restaurants today, it comes down to apply ancient technique to new foods. Jacques Pepin definitely had a strong influence on chefs like Thomas Keller and other modern-day kings and queens of chefdom. He’s not the father of professional cooking, but he’s certainly a duke or earl of the foundations of food. His cooking show with his daughter, Claudine, showed me that cooking was something that was both a useful skill and a community adventure. His recipes for squid and oysters were actually the first times I ever saw those sea creatures in a European application – the Chinese have a completely different way of serving seafood and my parents aren’t big on it. I can’t directly credit him for my eventual decision to go to culinary school, but the seed had been planted when I watched his cooking shows and read his cookbooks as a young girl.
Recipes from Jacques Pepin
Tarte Tatin
We make a souffleed pancake at work, but this dessert definitely has me wishing that we made this instead.
This famous upside-down apple tart starts with caramelized apples, studded with almonds and bits of chewy apricots, and topped with a flaky, buttery crust. Inverted, this dessert makes an impressive—and mouthwatering—presentation.
Ingredients
Yield: 8-10 servings
Ingredients
Yield: 8-10 servings
Pâte Brisée
1 c. flour
6 tbsp. very cold unsalted butter
1/8 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. sugar
1/4 c. ice water
Filling
1/3 c. sugar
3 tbsp. water
5 tbsp. unsalted butter
4 lb. Golden Delicious apples
1/2 c. sliced dried apricots
1/4 c. slivered almonds or pine nuts
1/2 c. water
Glaze
2 tbsp. sugar
Garnish (optional)
1 c. heavy cream
1 tbsp. rum
1 tbsp. confectioners' sugar
Preparation
For the pâte brisée:
Put flour in a food processor. Cut butter into 1/4" slices and add to flour. Add salt and sugar, and process 5-8 seconds. Butter should still be visible in the dough. Add the water and process 5-10 seconds, just until the dough starts gathering. Turn it out onto a large piece of plastic wrap. Form it into a loose mass.
Cover the dough with another piece of plastic wrap and roll the dough out to form a circle 11" in diameter. Lift the enclosed dough round onto a cookie sheet and refrigerate while you prepare the apple filling.
For the filling:
Cook the sugar with 3 tbsp. water in a nonstick ovenproof 12" skillet over high heat until it caramelizes (3-4 minutes). Remove the skillet from the heat, and set aside. The caramel will harden. Remove the apple cores. Split the apples and cut into quarters.
Arrange apple quarters on top of the caramel skin side down in one layer. You will use 20-24 pieces. Sprinkle on the apricots and nuts, and dot with butter. Slice remaining apples thin (4-1/2 to 5 cups), and arrange in the skillet to fill empty spaces. Add 1/2 c. water, and bring to a boil. Cover, and boil gently for 10 minutes. Remove the lid and cook over med. heat for 7-8 minutes, until there is no visible liquid.
Preheat oven to 400°. Remove dough round from the refrigerator, and place on a large cutting board. Peel off plastic wrap. Trim the edge to make the dough round, then fold the edge in on itself to form a border.
Lift the dough carefully, and arrange on top of the apples in the skillet. Press it down gently, and sprinkle with 2 tbsp. sugar. Bake for 45 minutes. Incline the pan. If any visible juices remain, cook over med. heat on the stove for 3-4 minutes. The tart can be cooked a few hours ahead.
Before serving, heat skillet for a few minutes, shaking it to release the apples. Place a round platter upside down over the skillet and invert the contents of the pan onto it, so the crust is now on the bottom.
To prepare the garnish:
Beat the heavy cream with the rum and sugar until firm but not stiff.
To serve:
Cut into wedges and serve with flavored whipped cream.
Recipe courtesy of Alfred A. Knopf, ©2001 Jacques Pépin
1 c. flour
6 tbsp. very cold unsalted butter
1/8 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. sugar
1/4 c. ice water
Filling
1/3 c. sugar
3 tbsp. water
5 tbsp. unsalted butter
4 lb. Golden Delicious apples
1/2 c. sliced dried apricots
1/4 c. slivered almonds or pine nuts
1/2 c. water
Glaze
2 tbsp. sugar
Garnish (optional)
1 c. heavy cream
1 tbsp. rum
1 tbsp. confectioners' sugar
Preparation
For the pâte brisée:
Put flour in a food processor. Cut butter into 1/4" slices and add to flour. Add salt and sugar, and process 5-8 seconds. Butter should still be visible in the dough. Add the water and process 5-10 seconds, just until the dough starts gathering. Turn it out onto a large piece of plastic wrap. Form it into a loose mass.
Cover the dough with another piece of plastic wrap and roll the dough out to form a circle 11" in diameter. Lift the enclosed dough round onto a cookie sheet and refrigerate while you prepare the apple filling.
For the filling:
Cook the sugar with 3 tbsp. water in a nonstick ovenproof 12" skillet over high heat until it caramelizes (3-4 minutes). Remove the skillet from the heat, and set aside. The caramel will harden. Remove the apple cores. Split the apples and cut into quarters.
Arrange apple quarters on top of the caramel skin side down in one layer. You will use 20-24 pieces. Sprinkle on the apricots and nuts, and dot with butter. Slice remaining apples thin (4-1/2 to 5 cups), and arrange in the skillet to fill empty spaces. Add 1/2 c. water, and bring to a boil. Cover, and boil gently for 10 minutes. Remove the lid and cook over med. heat for 7-8 minutes, until there is no visible liquid.
Preheat oven to 400°. Remove dough round from the refrigerator, and place on a large cutting board. Peel off plastic wrap. Trim the edge to make the dough round, then fold the edge in on itself to form a border.
Lift the dough carefully, and arrange on top of the apples in the skillet. Press it down gently, and sprinkle with 2 tbsp. sugar. Bake for 45 minutes. Incline the pan. If any visible juices remain, cook over med. heat on the stove for 3-4 minutes. The tart can be cooked a few hours ahead.
Before serving, heat skillet for a few minutes, shaking it to release the apples. Place a round platter upside down over the skillet and invert the contents of the pan onto it, so the crust is now on the bottom.
To prepare the garnish:
Beat the heavy cream with the rum and sugar until firm but not stiff.
To serve:
Cut into wedges and serve with flavored whipped cream.
Recipe courtesy of Alfred A. Knopf, ©2001 Jacques Pépin
Fine-Herbes Omelet: Conventional and Classic
I included this recipe, because the ability to prepare an omelet in the classic way is somewhat of a gauntlet that we had to run when we were in the 2nd quarter portion of the culinary program. I am now a snotty judge of omelets. I included Jacques’ version, because his television demonstration was the second time I’d ever seen anyone roll an omelet from the pan. The first was while on a vacation, and it was one of the most memorable elements of the trip.
The elegance of this omelet is in its simplicity. A mixture of fresh herbs is delicately folded into creamy eggs-a beautiful addition to any brunch menu.
Ingredients
Yield: 1 lg. omelet
3 lg. eggs
Dash salt and ground black pepper
2 tbsp. herbs (1 tbsp. finely chopped parsley and 1 tbsp. finely chopped mixture of chervil, tarragon, and chives)
1-1/2 tsp. unsalted butter
Preparation
For the conventional omelet:
Mix the eggs, salt, pepper, and herbs in a bowl. Melt the butter in the omelet pan. When hot, pour the egg-herb mixture into the center, and cook over med. heat for 10-15 seconds. Stir the eggs with a fork, so the runny part flows between the set curds. Repeat a few times.
When most of the eggs are set but slightly liquid, the omelet is ready. Using a fork or spatula, fold in half in the pan. Invert onto a plate and serve.
For the classic omelet:
Using a fork, beat the eggs with the salt, pepper, and herbs in a bowl.
Melt the butter in a 6-8" nonstick skillet. When foaming, add the eggs. Holding your fork flat, stir the eggs quickly while shaking the pan back and forth. Continue so the eggs coagulate uniformly.
When eggs are lightly set but moist, incline your pan forward so most of the eggs gather at the far end of the pan. Stop stirring. The mass of eggs should thin out around the edges at the near end. Using your fork, fold this thin edge toward the center of the omelet, enclosing the thick, moist center.
Press the fold into place, creating a rounded edge. Run your fork between the edge of the pan and the far edge of the omelet to loosen. Using the palm of one hand, tap the handle gently where it joins the pan, to shake the omelet and make it twist and lift onto itself, so the lip rises above the edge of the pan. Fold this lip back toward the center of the omelet, meeting and overlapping the edge of the other lip. Press with the flat of the fork to shape the omelet into a point at each end.
Holding your serving plate, bang the underside of the pan against the counter at the omelet end, so the omelet moves against the edge of the pan. Invert the omelet onto a plate. Press with the flat of the fork to shape the omelet into a point at each end. Serve.
Recipe courtesy of Alfred A. Knopf, ©2001 Jacques Pépin
Duck Liver Pâté Epicurious | November 1996 Ingredients
Yield: 1 lg. omelet
3 lg. eggs
Dash salt and ground black pepper
2 tbsp. herbs (1 tbsp. finely chopped parsley and 1 tbsp. finely chopped mixture of chervil, tarragon, and chives)
1-1/2 tsp. unsalted butter
Preparation
For the conventional omelet:
Mix the eggs, salt, pepper, and herbs in a bowl. Melt the butter in the omelet pan. When hot, pour the egg-herb mixture into the center, and cook over med. heat for 10-15 seconds. Stir the eggs with a fork, so the runny part flows between the set curds. Repeat a few times.
When most of the eggs are set but slightly liquid, the omelet is ready. Using a fork or spatula, fold in half in the pan. Invert onto a plate and serve.
For the classic omelet:
Using a fork, beat the eggs with the salt, pepper, and herbs in a bowl.
Melt the butter in a 6-8" nonstick skillet. When foaming, add the eggs. Holding your fork flat, stir the eggs quickly while shaking the pan back and forth. Continue so the eggs coagulate uniformly.
When eggs are lightly set but moist, incline your pan forward so most of the eggs gather at the far end of the pan. Stop stirring. The mass of eggs should thin out around the edges at the near end. Using your fork, fold this thin edge toward the center of the omelet, enclosing the thick, moist center.
Press the fold into place, creating a rounded edge. Run your fork between the edge of the pan and the far edge of the omelet to loosen. Using the palm of one hand, tap the handle gently where it joins the pan, to shake the omelet and make it twist and lift onto itself, so the lip rises above the edge of the pan. Fold this lip back toward the center of the omelet, meeting and overlapping the edge of the other lip. Press with the flat of the fork to shape the omelet into a point at each end.
Holding your serving plate, bang the underside of the pan against the counter at the omelet end, so the omelet moves against the edge of the pan. Invert the omelet onto a plate. Press with the flat of the fork to shape the omelet into a point at each end. Serve.
Recipe courtesy of Alfred A. Knopf, ©2001 Jacques Pépin
I’ve only had foie gras once, and I was rather distracted by the guilt of eating it. This seemed like a great alternative.
by Jacques Pepin
Jaques Pepin's Kitchen: Cooking with Claudine
| This may not be as good as a true foie gras, but it's similar enough in flavor for a dish that costs only pennies to make. Not only can the pâté be served on toast — it can also serve as a finish for a classic Beef Wellington or enhance a stuffing or a meat loaf. Yield: Makes 1/2 cup, enough for about 16 toasts 3 ounces duck fat 1 large shallot, peeled and coarsely chopped (2 1/2 tablespoons) 1 duck liver (about 3 ounces), cut into 1-inch pieces 1/4 teaspoon herbes de Provence 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon Cognac 16 1/4-inch-thick horizontal slices from a small baguette, toasted 1. Place duck fat in a skillet, and cook over medium to high heat for 4 to 5 minutes, until the fat has melted and some of it has browned. 2. Add the shallots, and cook for about 30 seconds, stirring occasionally. Add the liver, herbes de Provence, and garlic, and cook over medium to high heat for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the salt and pepper. 3. Transfer the mixture to a blender, add the Cognac, and blend until liquefied. If a finer textured pâté is desired, push the mixture through the holes of a strainer with a spoon. This will yield 1/2 cup. Let cool for at least 1 1/2 hours, then cover and and refrigerate until serving time. 4. Spread the pâté on the toasted baguette slices, and serve. The pâté will keep, well covered, for 3 to 4 days. Source Information Jacques Pepin's Kitchen: Cooking with Claudine Bay Books & Tapes, Inc. |
References
This, Herve. Molecular Gastronomy. New York: Columbia University Press, 2006.
Child, Julia and Jacques Pepin. Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, Inc., 1999.
Pepin, Jacques. Chez Jacques Traditions and Rituals of a Cook. New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc and Stweart, Tabori & Chang, 2007.
“Jacques Pepin.” Delish website. shttp://www.delish.com/cooking-shows/famous-chefs/celebrity-chef-jacques-pepin
“The Long View: French Gourmand Jacques Pepin.” NPR Interview Transcript. http://www.npr.org/2010/12/29/132364039/the-long-view-french-gourmand-jacques-pepin
“Jacques Pepin tells story of his dazzling career.” ABC News interview. http://abcnews.go.com/Nightline/chef-jacques-pepin-tells-story-dazzling-career/story?id=8461562&singlePage=true
Gordinier, Jeff. “There’s the Wrong Way and Jacques Pepin’s Way.” New York Times. http://www.nytimes.com/2011/10/19/dining/jacques-pepin-demonstrates-cooking-techniques.html?_r=1&pagewanted=print
